Cairngorms
Richards Mountain Pages
The image above shows the Cairngorms from the South (from Sgor Mor), showing many of the main peaks. Scroll the screen
and move your mouse around the picture to discover the individual peaks (hint: there are 11 peaks and one glen to discover).
In general the Cairngorms are more or less a large plateau rising to 4000 feet, with Ben MacDui being the highest
point (and the second highest peak in Britain). However, the plateau has been cut up by various glaciers in the past
splitting off numerous peaks for the Munro bagger, and creating some stunning scenery. Most notable is the Lairig Ghru
which cuts a 2000 foot deep U-shaped trough through the heart of the plateau, and offering a stupendous walk between
Breamar in the South and Aviemore in the North. Anyone attempting this walk should be aware of its length, and the
Cairngorm weather, which can attack with seemingly little warning. I once observed from the Devils Point, a squall
blowing through the Lairig Ghru, gradually eating the peaks on either side as it approached. It reached me just as
I made it to the relative safety of Corrour bothy.
The snow in the Cairngorms may come and go throughout the winter, or linger for many months into the summer. The picture
above, shows the Angels Point from the slopes of Ben MacDui in late May one year. Despite the snow, the day was hot, and
being caught unaware by the brightnessof the light I suffered snow blindness and sunburn for my exploits - not something
I would want to go through again.
For a milder dose of Cairngorm weather I took a sequence of photos from the shelter of Glen Derry, showing a shower
blowing in. To see this animated sequence, just click on the link below left. Alternatively, to find out more about
the area surrounding the central Cairngorms (including the river Dee, and Lochnagar) click on the link below right.
Once you've climbed through the heather of the lower slopes, you reach the sub-artic plateau. Here little but a few
mosses and lichens survive the harsh winter, and poor gritty soil. Despite this you'll find mountain hares, ptarmigan,
dotterel, and several other types of critter up there.
Hidden deep in the heart of the Cairngorm plateau lies a little gem. The visitors to Cairngorm can't see it, and even
on approach, only the map gives any clue to the little chunk of clear blue water that appears as you descend the South
side of Cairngorm. Down a steep rocky path beside the burn, the full beauty of idyllic Loch Avon at last reveals itself.
Surrounded by 2000 ft high cliffs, there are few ways to reach this loch, and fewer to escape if the weather turns bad.
The loch is fed by the ice cold waters draining from a semi permanent patch of snow on Ben MacDui above. Here a couple
of green patches beside a gritty beach offer an ideal wild camp site for exploring the surrounding peaks (but please
take your rubbish home, as no-one else wants to cart it over a mountain).
The panorama above was taken from a point where the plateau dips between Beinn A Chaorainn and Beinn Bhreac, looking
West over Glen Derry (hidden) towards Ben MacDui (the snowy bit on the left). The nobbly bits on the right are the
summit outcrops of Beinn Mheadhoin. These are rounded lumps of granite, similar to those found on
Dartmoor. Ben Avon and Bynack Mor also have such outcrops. The picture below shows
them a bit closer.
Geology
These mountains are made almost entirely of red granite, eathered to
a coarse grit. This is rather odd because Cairngorm means blue mountain. However when seen from a distance with
its usual cloak of dark cloud, the peaks do indeed look blue.
The granite originally formed from volcanic activity pushing up a dome of rock, but not breaking the surface.
This allowed it to cool slowly resulting in the formation of the familar crystalline rock. Some time later
an ice age or two created glaciers that scoured the rock into the familiar U-shaped valleys we see today. You
may think that the glaciers have gone, but look carefully at the sheltered side of Ben MacDui, and you'll find
a patch of snow that lasts through the summer.
Settlements
There are no settlement in the heart of the Cairngorms, but many towns and villages surround them.
These are the ones I've visited:
- Aviemore - A town built up for a ski industry that never really took off. Not particularly attractive.
- Blair Atholl - Two plush hotels, an old castle, some shops and a number of houses make up this quiet spot.
- Braemar - A pleasant highland village
- Dalwhinnie - A distillery and a greasy cafe and thats about it.
- Pitlochry - Bigger and more tourist oriented than Blair Atholl, has two distilleries.
Transport
There are no roads or railways in the heart of the Cairngorms. Trains and buses can get you to a number of
starting points, from where a long walk, or cycle hire can get you to each of the peaks.
- Three trains a day call at Blair Atholl (for Glen Tilt and Beinn A Ghlo), Dalwhinnie (for some less exciting peaks)
and Aviemore.
- From Aviemore a bus service runs to the Ski centre beneath Cairngorm several times a day all year.
- Trains also run to Aberdeen (from Inverness and the South), from where a bus service leads to Braemar. Unfortunately
buses no longer continue to the ski centre (or Pitlochry), but a single postbus runs there and to Inverey if you can
catch it!
- Bikes may be hired in Aviemore and Braemar. However be aware that the Scottish National Trust (which has bought the
Mar Lodge Estate) are trying to discourage access to the mountains by mountain bike beyond certain key points.
Needless to say its not always good weather in the Cairngorms, or the neighbouring Grampians - just take a look at
these summits.... just a pile of rocks!
Maps
You can buy the maps that cover this region, in association with Ordnance Survey, by using the links below:
back to map
