Lewis is the mainly flat part of the island shared with Harris. The interior is a vast expanse
of peat bog accessed only for the cutting of fuel. Most features of interest are found around
the coast. Chief amongst these is the stone circle (or rather stone Celtic cross) at Callanish
(Calanais), which can be seen in the fly-round view above. From this spot it is aparently
possible to see the shape of a woman lying down in the distant hills of Harris. I failed to
make this out where the sign claimed it to be, but later spotted a more obvious figure 90 degrees
to the right on the approach to the stones. wherever the true figure lies, it was obvious enough
for the village named after it, and to be sited
nearby. Could the stones also have been located there for this reason? Do they look just a little
like an extended female figure with a burial at its womb? You'll just have to go there to
decide for yourself!
A little further up the coast we come to one of the best preserved Brochs to be found anywhere
in Scotland. Since these ancient Martello tower like buildings are only found there, that makes
it pretty unique. Whats left is like a cut-away of the original building, showing how it was
constructed from two concentric circular walls just wide enough to walk between. between the walls
slabs form platforms and corridors at various heights. Accessing the broch and its passages is
easiest by children as all the doorways are very low.
Two miles further we come to the restored blackhouse village of Garenin (Gearannan). The village
was lived in until 1974, when the last of the elderly residents was moved out to more modern
accommodation. After a lot of restoration the village is now partly a museum, but also contains
one of the most atmospheric hostels in Scotland, as well as a set of four holiday cottages that
can be rented out at Gearannan holiday cottages.
An hour's walk takes you over rocky cliff tops to a stunning sandy beach at Dal Mhor (see below).
A smaller version lies a bit further away at Dal Beg. Another sandy beach can be found at Uig, where
the viking chess pieces were found.
There are numerous other smaller attractions, including a whalebone arch, and further blackhouses
as the coast road is followed further. I haven't visited any of these, and so can't really comment.
Geology The geology of Lewis is mainly hidden by the deep peat deposits. Where it is exposed, you'll find
Lewisian Gneiss - a compressed and contorted metamorphic rock with the texture of wood. It comes in
various colours (from white to pink to black) depending on its varying composition.
Contrasting with the gneiss there are pale beaches of calcerous sand formed from the breaking up
of seashells. These are however more prevalent on southern Harris.
Settlements Stornoway is the largest settlement in the Outer Hebrides and is comaparable to a small town elsewhere.
With the exception of the superb castle grounds, I found the rest of the town a bit drab, but then
it is a port - and most ports are rather drab. The castle itself is derelict, but the wooded grounds
provided miles of light walking with good views. The Woodland Centre (below the castle) does an
excellent baked potato - I recommend the South Uist, flaked, smoked salmon as a topping.
The other attraction of Stornoway is the well hidden museum. Unfortunately none of the Viking chess pieces
are kept there, but its worth a look regardless.
There are no other settlements of more than a few houses on Lewis. In places you may find a small
shop or post office, but the supplies that can be got from such places are very limited and sporadic.
One I tried had a sack of onions, tomato soup, baked beans, sardines in oil, and little else apart
from a day old copy of News Of The World. There was no milk, bread, eggs, or even fizzy drinks. The shop
has since closed down.
Transport Being an island, the transport runs like clockwork. The buses (at best hourly, but some are only one
a day or fewer) all link up, so a journey from one part of the island to another can be virtually
guaranteed to work. For a quick tour of Lewis I recommend taking the circular tour from Stornoway
on the number 2 bus. This gives you around three stop-offs around the circuit in one day.
