Orkney
Richards Mountain Pages
Orkney is an archipelago of islands sitting just North of mainland Scotland. the biggest is known confusingly as the mainland. It boasts the only sizeable settlements, and acts as a good base to explore the quieter islands around it.

To the West, and helping to encompass the deep harbour of Scapa Flow, lies the hilly island of Hoy. It boasts the highest three peaks of the island group, rising to a not too taxing 481 metres. the Northern part of the island is a nature reserve centred around the deep U-shaped valley between the main peaks. Further South, the wild landscape rolls gently back to sea level.

Westray (to the North) is a long tapering island with jagged cliffs to the North West, flanked by a small range of hills, running about half the length of the island. The other shores are a mix of beautiful sandy bays, flat rocks and cliffs. Puffins can be seen at the right time of year.


The other islands are mainly to the North. Since I have yet to visit any of these, I can only provide a brief note on each. I'll be back to fill in the details after my next trip here.

• Shapinsay is flat farmland
• Rousay is mainly one rounded hill, surrounded by interesting ancient relics
• Papa Westray (Papay to its friends) is a small island beside Westray
• Egilsay holds a church linked strongly to the history of the islands
• Eday appears to be similar to Westray
• Sanday has numerous wide sandy bays
• North Ronaldsay is the northern most island
• Flotta is an oil terminal in Scap Flow
• Burray and South Ronaldsay are attached by causeway to the mainland

Historic Sites
Orkney is particularly famous for its numerous well preserved historic sites...

• Skara Brae - a unique stone age village, uncovered by a storm. Well worth a look but go early or late to avoid the coach tour masses
• Maes Howe - a burial chamber reached by a very low passage. The rune grafitti is particularly interesting.
• Stones Of Stenness and Brodgar Ring - two sets of standing stones quite close by, linked by numerous other solitary stones in a long chain.
• Tomb Of The Eagles - I've not seen this, but many people have told me it is impressive. The bodies of the dead were left here for the eagles to pick clean, before the bones were put away.
• Mid Howe (on Rousay) - a long burial chamber (I've not seen it yet)
• Mine Howe - An underground chamber reached by twisting steps - still a mystery what it was for

Geology
The isles of Orkney are comprised of sedimentary sandstones laid down over millions of years. In places you can split the layers to reveal ripples where the surface was once washed by waves.
The geology is most evident around the coast, where narrow inlets known as 'geo's provide dramatic pictures. The most notable of these is at Deerness, where it runs deep inland, passing under a wide arch, and ending at a waterfall.

Settlements
Kirkwall is the main town of Orkney. It acts as a focal point for bus services, flights and a good proportion of the ferries. You can also hire a bike, and get supplies there.

Stromness is the smaller second town, and hosts the main ferry terminal for routes to mainland Scotland and the Shetlands. Its facilities are much more limited than Kirkwall. Finstown has fewer facilities still, but sits at a cross roads of many bus routes.

Transport
On the mainland of Orkney the easiest way to get around is by bus - but beware that the timetables are not geared to the needs of visitors (or apparently many of the locals). The service connecting Stromness, Finstown and Kirkwall is the most frequent. This runs roughly once an hour or two.

To get between the islands there are two options - plane or ferry. The Summer Sunday ferry to the northern isles is particularly good value, and leaves you on the island of your choice for 4-6 hours. I've also tried the ferry from Stromness to Hoy - a small boat which does up to two runs in the morning, and up to another three in the afternoon (most frequent on Fridays)

Flights between the islands are by a small plane operating from Kirkwall airport. Try asking for an in flight meal on the worlds shortest scheduled flight (taking 2 minutes to hop between Westray and Papa Westray). There are cheap deals for island hopping.

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